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When assembling a roll of London’s best eateries, one might expect renowned award-winning establishments. However, situated prominently among these gastronomic giants is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung part of northern London.

A Shocking Honour

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been named the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This accolade has left the family completely surprised.

“I’m totally shocked,” states the proprietor, pointing to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest shop achieving such a high spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a buzzing destination, has retained much of its earlier charm. It fits just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” notes the owner.

A Signature Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the food, and this establishment certainly delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a moist, juicy texture.

It is then thrown into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the savoury meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically eaten with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a mighty slap of flavour, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and less sickly taste.

Surpassing the Titans

Notably, this modest spot has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the summit of the list, just after other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for less than £25, equivalent experiences at luxury establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

The Ethos of Warmth

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is most important is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London come to this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the traps of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am very pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants need years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a social life but her friends would visit to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the People

This restaurant’s success is bound to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this culinary triumph.